Turquoise rivers, jungle and cloud forests: is this Central American country the ultimate winter adventure?

Heavy fog blankets Costa Rica's San José International Airport as our plane lands. I’m one of many latitudinally challenged Brits eager for a tropical adventure in one of the world’s most climate-friendly nations. With an 11-hour direct flight from Gatwick and the gloom of a British winter behind us, we are ready to explore an increasingly popular corner of this tiny nation.

Before heading northwest, we pause in San José, the capital city which is just a short distance from Juan Santamaría International Airport. Costa Rica boasts two international airports, with Liberia’s Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport offering easy access to the highlands we’re bound for.

San José, like many Latin American capitals, sprawls across a high-altitude grid. It has a charming colonial buildings, a national museum, and hotels such as the Grano de Oro, a converted hacienda showcasing traditional architecture with an open courtyard.

But to most Costa Rican's and travellers alike, the capital is a place of work, traffic and concrete. Good for a quick stop off but by no means the star attraction of the country.

Another similarity to other Latin American nations is the manifold variations of rice and beans that make up the traditional diet here. Arroz con todo,’ is a popular refrain here, meaning rice with everything. They are not lying. Top of the list to try is the Gallo Pinto, a breakfast dish based around a mound of fried rice and beans, plantain, eggs, tortilla and fresh cheese.

Every establishment puts a different twist on this classic. Be sure to ask for Salsa Lizano, a green chilli sauce, unique to Costa Rica. Think of a mild hot sauce, with a tang of Worcestershire and a mysterious hint of umami.

Fortified by this dense breakfast and steaming cups of black Costa Rican coffee we make a break for the hills. From San José, a short car journey and an easy trek leads to the Poás Volcano National Park. This is one of the most popular attractions in this country, complete with a visitor centre, walkways and plenty of signage to aid those making the journey without a guide.

This massive, sulphurous volcanic crater is surrounded by cloud forest, one of six distinct kinds here. This particular habitat is created by the near constant cloud cover. It's lush and humid, the fog is so thick you feel like you are walking through the clouds on stretches. It can be hard to spot the wildlife, but the flora makes up for it. Lichens, orchids, and bromeliads abound alongside otherworldly Gunnera Insignis, known Poor Man's Umbrella, with leaves so big you can shelter from the misty rain.

Costa Rica’s Unique History

Costa Rica’s history sets it apart in the region. After a brief civil war in 1948, the nation abolished its military, investing instead in education, healthcare, and public institutions. This focus on social development has paid dividends. Costa Rica enjoys the region’s highest life expectancy, a robust economy, and a reputation as one of the happiest nations worldwide. With a literacy rate of 98%, it stands in stark contrast to many of its neighbours.

So, what does it all actually mean for the average traveller?

This stable and eco-conscious environment makes Costa Rica a dream to explore. The country functions efficiently, earning it the nickname “The Switzerland of Latin America.” And while it may lack the edge and excitement of Colombia or Mexico, its well-organised infrastructure and friendly, laid-back locals ensure a smooth and easy-going experience.

Just be prepared to go to bed early, pay UK comparable prices for most things, and be exiled a hundred metres from any establishment if you want to smoke.

Rules and regulations are closely followed here. Costa Rican’s are, by and large, a clean living bunch. Day’s start at a consistent 6am this close to the equator and locals tend to rise with it. Most bars seem to close rather early.

Those looking for vibrant nightlife can head to areas in downtown San José, such as La California & Barrio Escalante, or beachside towns such as Tamarindo. But it seems a little besides the point. The country’s charm and natural beauty make up for the the lack of thumping nightclubs in spades.

Heading Northwest

Travelling northwest along Route 27, we experience the efficiency of Costa Rica first hand. When a landslide temporarily blocks our path, a bulldozer arrives and clears the way within 20 minutes. English is widely spoken, crime rates are low, and transport options are plentiful. Locals greet visitors with a friendly “pura vida,” a ubiquitous expression capturing the national spirit of joy and openness.

The highlands of the northeast beckon with their tropical dry forests, a unique habitat that offers excellent opportunities to spot wildlife. As we ascend into the Tenorio Volcano National Park, we encounter the dazzling turquoise blue Río Celeste.

This extraordinary hue is caused by a natural phenomenon. A chemical reaction occurs at the confluence of two rivers upstream, the Río Buenavista and the Quebrada Agria.

A change in PH as these two waterways collide has an affect on silica particles in the water, scattering sunlight in such a way that highlights blue wavelengths, giving the river its brilliant turquoise hue. The lush green rainforest on the rivers banks only accentuating its colour.

These lush rainforests and scenic trails provide a haven for hiking and birdwatching enthusiasts.

This region was hitherto inaccessible for all but the hardiest travellers, but in 2018 a paved road was finished opening up the area for visitors. The national park has become so popular that it has now introduced quotas for visitors, with a maximum of 500 people in the park at one time, with a maximum of 1,000 total people allowed during the day.

Sustainable Tourism and Conservation

Costa Rica is a pioneer in marrying conservation and tourism, hosting 6.5% of the world’s biodiversity on just 0.03% of the planet’s surface. After losing nearly half its forest cover by 1987, the country embarked on a massive reforestation effort, reversing deforestation entirely. It is the first nation to do so. Today, 60% of the land is covered in forests, home to an extraordinary array of species.

This ecological ethos permeates every aspect of Costa Rican tourism. Resorts like the Río Celeste Hideaway Hotel blend luxury with sustainability.

The luxurious casitas look out on a sheer wall of jungle foliage, the landscape peeking through the leaves in the distance. Each stands alone, with both indoor and outdoor showers, kitchenettes, large comfy beds, the perfect place to relax after a day trekking in the national parks.

The property’s jungle backdrop is home to a sloth called Emma who can be spotted high in the trees. A coati called Pancho often joins guests for breakfast. Frogs and nocturnal tapirs can be spotted after dinner. Walking around the property feels like an adventure, albeit with a pool, gym and a number of bars. There are a number of trails around this 80-acre property. Staff can advise as to the best time to catch certain species. Hint: it’s pretty early.

Excess food waste is fed to the resident animals who roam free around the grounds and the hotel keeps its impact on the habitat as low as possible.

Tour guide Maciel Elizondo explains, “Everything is like a circle. You pay for a tour, enjoy the country, and give something back to the places you visit.” This philosophy ensures that tourism supports local communities and conservation efforts, from national parks to coffee plantations.

Costa Ricans appear to have bought into this ecological push wholesale, and ‘Tico’s’, as they call themselves, approach near Scandinavian levels of love for the outdoors.

It’s common for a traveller in Latin America to feel marked out when arriving at an establishment wearing anything less than Sunday-best. Not so much here.

Costa Ricans love of outdoor gear puts a Hackney beer garden to shame. Hiking boots and trousers abound. But this extends beyond the sartorial and locals will regale you with details on flora and fauna at the drop of a boonie hat.

Taxi drivers scan the roadside foliage with a near worrying intensity before stopping by the side of the road to point out sloths, white faced capucins and toucans high in the trees.

Guanacaste and Beyond

We are in luck as the tropical dry forests in this region provide a striking contrast to the cloud forests of the central highlands. Their open canopies make wildlife sightings more frequent, and activities like kayaking, ziplining and horseback riding are easy to come by. The region’s drier climate and shorter rainy season make it an attractive year-round destination.

While the virtues of a circular economy are clear, a journey to this region need not be. Liberia’s airport offers convenient departures to a range of US airports with easy transfers back to the UK. No need to double back to make your return.

But the memories of Costa Rica’s vibrant landscapes, welcoming people, and commitment to sustainability linger long after departure. Here, the spirit of “pura vida” isn’t just a phrase but an ethos that’s been embraced whole heartedly. We could all learn a lot from this.

Rooms at Hideaway Rio Celeste start at $302 (£241) but vary in price across the year.

Flights to direct to Costa Rica usually set you back around £1000 but non-direct can be as low as £600.

For more information go to visitcostarica.com.