Where to stay in the charming French city known for its soap
Marseille is one of the best European cities. There's nothing quite like sitting on a terrace in Marseille, a steaming bowl of bouillabaisse fish soup and a chilled glass of Provençal rosé in front of you.
This sparkling, rough-around-the-edges Mediterranean city (one of the country’s oldest) is where France meets North Africa, and its energy and lust for life is palpable wherever you go, from the Vieux Port with its fishing boats and harbourfront cafés and restaurants to the mighty modern Mucem (Museum of Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean) and iconic Notre-Dame de la Garde Basilica perched up high above it all.
Famed for its cream and olive soap, which dates back to the 17th century, as well as its delicious bouillabaisse and being France's pizza capital, Marseille is one of France's most diverse and enchanting cities. September to November is an excellent time to visit if you'd rather avoid the summer crowds, while spring is another wonderful season to soak up the city's delights.
Meanwhile, the rugged calanques (rocky fjords) in the national park of the same nature shouldn’t be missed for an escape into wild nature within minutes of the city centre, or there are ferries out to the Isle of Frioul.
The best hotels in Marseille are a motley crew of boutique retreats and expansive luxury options, many right on the water or with sweeping views over the port. Most have cosseting spas where you can hide away for a few hours before plunging back into the fray of this intoxicating city, as well as tempting restaurants – some, Le Petit Nice and Alcyone at the Intercontinental, serving Michelin-starred food.
Eurostar trains to the South of France aren’t operating for the foreseeable future, but Marseille is still very easy to get to from the UK by train for a no-fly holiday – take a Eurostar to Paris or Lille and change to a connecting TGV InOui train, with this second leg taking only three hours 40 minutes.
Alternatively, you can drive to Marseille from England by taking the Eurotunnel from Folkestone to Calais-Fréthun, which takes around 35 minutes. When you arrive in Calais-Fréthun, you can then make the 10-hour journey to Marseille via car.
Here is our pick of the best hotels in Marseille to make your base.
Le Petit Nice Passedat
This is a Relais & Châteaux property, so you’re know you’re in for a very special stay as soon as you walk through through the door. And, the cuisine here is very much part of the experience – no fewer than three Michelin-starred, it’s centred on spanking-fresh sea anemones, bonito, sea urchins, crabs and shellfish caught virtually on site. The bouillabaisse and sea bass are particularly revered, but the tasting menu shouldn’t be missed for the full overview.
Awash in Mediterranean light, many of the rooms and suites at Le Petit Nice Passedat have sea-view terraces. Some also come with a vintage record player and a compact vinyl collection to go with it. There’s also a summer heated seawater pool and a new wellness area with hammam, Japanese bath and gym.
Maison Juste
A great option for those who prize sustainability, community and affordability, the ‘Fair House’ was conceived with the help of local artisans and family businesses on the basis of working with what one has rather than buying new or demolishing. It also pays its staff above industry standards. It’s a reception-free, key-free affair, with everything managed by app – although concierges are always on hand for drink and dinner recommendations and reservations. ‘Breakfast-to-go’ can be delivered to your door to enjoy at your leisure and there’s free tea and coffee in the cosy lounge.
Rooms are neutral-hued havens free of the distractions of TVs, with eco-friendly, king-sized mattresses, kitchenettes and blackout curtains, some with garden views.
Les Bords de Mer
This boutique bolthole is the perfect retreat after days spent exploring the cityscape, situated as it just steps from the Vieux Port and Mucem yet offering calming, uncluttered rooms and suites opening onto the shimmering Mediterranean.
Seem to be floating just above water level, Les Bords de Mer’s restaurant is best known for serving local sea urchins prepared in innovative ways. There’s also a rooftop bar concocting cocktails infused with Provençal aromas, a mineral spa dispensing lush treatments, and a second relaxation pool out on the main terrace.
Maisons du Monde Hôtel & Suites - Marseille Vieux Port
With a plum harbourside location, this charming spot has unique decor inspired by different parts of southern France and different eras: choose from Saint-Rémy rooms with a sunny, laidback Mediterranean vibe, Art Deco inflected Gordes rooms, nature-themed Cassis rooms, aristocratically minded Lourmarin rooms, and Aubagne rooms with their terracotta-hued rooms reminiscent of Provençal landscapes.
Some come with port views; all have an espresso machine for enjoying Maisons du Monde Hôtel & Suites own-roasted coffee, plus the option of room service throughout the day.
InterContinental Marseille - Hôtel Dieu, an IHG Hotel
This is a visual stunner of a hotel in Le Panier district overlooking the Vieux Port, with a Clarins spa inspired by Provencal fountains and lavoirs, plus top dining options. There’s a stylish brasserie with a summer terrace and the hip Capian bar purveying some of the best cocktails in town.
Once a hospital, the handsome building occupied by the InterContinental Marseille - Hôtel Dieu now blends original features with contemporary chic. Rooms and suites, many with harbour views and some with terraces, are decorated in the mineral tones of the city.
Sofitel Marseille Vieux-Port
It’s (almost) all about the views at this sleek portside option with its Skylounge terrace commanding views over the city stretching from Mucem to the Basilica. Le Carré Bistromanie with its fresh takes the classics of French bistronomy also has a terrace, as do many of the rooms with their seaside-inspired decor (shells, pebbles and bubbles in subtle motifs).
The Sofitel Marseille Vieux-Port also has a second restaurant, the fine-dining Les Trois Forts, plus a wellness space with a relaxation pool and deck, a sauna and a hammam scented by aromatic essences.
La Residence du Vieux Port
With full-on Basilica views and a southerly aspect, making for light-flooded spaces, this colourful hotel is unique in Marseille for its retro styling, which embraces elements from periods as disparate as the 18th century and the 1950s. Individually decorated, rooms at La Residence du Vieux Port have fabulous views, some from a private balcony or terrace; one also has an antique, free-standing tub.
The on-site Relais 50 restaurant with its terrace and Mediterranean cuisine is right on the Vieux Port, beautifully shaded by olive trees.
Grand Hôtel Beauvau Marseille Vieux Port - MGallery
Beautifully renovated, Grand Hôtel Beauvau is a historic Marseille hotel right on the Old Port. Many of its rooms have sea views and sometimes their own terrace from which to soak in the views. Other options are duplexes, which are particularly handy for families. The decor is airy and modern here, while retaining the timeless spirit of the days when George Sand and Frédéric Chopin stayed here.
Great portside restaurants are situated right on the doorstep, while for breakfast the hotel offers up an amazing spread including lots of Provençal specialities. There’s also a lovely lounge bar with Old Port views through a spectacular half-moon window. You’re within steps of the Metro and all of Marseille’s central attractions including hilly, historic Le Panier with its Cathédrale La Major.
New Hotel Le Quai - Vieux Port
Sitting at the foot of the historic Canebière district, opposite the Old Port, this hotel stands out for its simple, pared-back rooms, many with unique rattan beds along with other natural elements such as sculptural wooden stools and benches, wicker lightshades and rustic, undyed linens.
New Hotel Le Quai’s communal spaces are equally inviting; they include a wood- and tile-floored breakfast room offering a buffet spread to set you up for the day, and cosy nooks for unfurling. There's also squishy leather sofas for catching up on work at the communal wooden tables on the mezzanine level.
Radisson Blu Hotel Marseille Vieux Port
The best rooms and suites at Radisson Blu Hotel Marseille have citadel (Saint Nicolas Fort) or Vieux Port views, and some come with their own terraces. There are citadel views from the beautiful (seasonal) rooftop swimming pool surrounded by inviting loungers; when you’re not relaxing there or out exploring the city and surrounds, the hotel has a dedicated pétanque court, too.
The decor throughout is light, contemporary and breezy, including in the welcoming Brasserie Le Quai du 7ème, with its port views and outdoor seating. Open all day, it offers Marseille-centric cuisine including fish dishes and homemade tarts; the Sunday lunches are popular, as are the cocktails and other aperitifs.
Residhome Marseille
This airy modern apart-hotel has a handy location in the Joliette neighbourhood just north of Vieux Port, surrounded by authentic bars, cafés and restaurants and within walking distance of all the major sites. It’s a great option for those who want more flexibility, with studios and apartments for up to four, all with a fully equipped kitchen.
Decor at the Residhome Marseille is fresh and bright, with nautical colours. And, for when you don’t want to self-cater, there’s also a striking, plant-filled dining space for copious buffet breakfasts.
Hotel C2
In a 19th-century mansion in the heart of the city, this boutique treasure takes the breath away with its soaring ceilings and vast volumes juxtaposing original features with contemporary elements. All the rooms and suites at Hotel C2 overlook a gorgeous and tranquil inner garden. You can also seek sanctuary from the city’s throng in the low-lit spa with its pool, experience showers, hammam and terrace.
This hotel is also a lively spot, hosting exhibitions and events such as concerts within its atmospheric spaces, which include a grand salon with a chic bar. Rather wonderfully, in summer guests enjoy exclusive access by the hotel’s own boat to the rocky Degaby island with its swimming, snorkelling and picnic lunches on the terrace with its loungers.
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