Why I Don’t Trust Any Grocery That Has This 5-Letter Word on the Box

Sometimes it’s written in small print, snuck in quietly in a product’s name or description. Other times, it’s out there in plain sight. Either way, there’s one five-letter word that instantly gives savvy grocery shoppers pause: the “-style” label.

I know I can’t be the only one who’s noticed it. As our palates become more global, there’s been an uptick of the use of the word “style” (or “inspired”) on packages lining grocery store aisles. But what does it even mean? Is it validation? A disclaimer? Just another marketing term with no real definition (looking at you, “all-natural”)? To find out more, we asked four experts to clear things up.

What’s the Deal with “Style” Labels?

These days, you’ll see “style” on a gamut of products: European-style butter, Australian-style yogurts, Vietnamese-style coffee, stir-fry-inspired noodles, barbecue-style sauces, artisanal-style pastries … the list goes on.

“Consumers are becoming increasingly adventurous in their food choices, either because they have traveled and experienced food in other countries, or because they enjoy the cuisine of other countries in restaurants,” says Nicola Bertinelli, president of the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium. Nearly nothing is ephemeral anymore as American consumers are “usually willing to pay a premium to replicate those experiences at home,” he says.

Manufacturers see this as an opportunity to capitalize on a trend, earn clout, and sell more products, at times without preserving or appreciating the food’s origin or cultural significance.

So, What Does “Style” Actually Mean?

Well, a few things. Companies are “trying to borrow the gastronomic values of foods or ingredients that belong to a different specific region, country, or culture,” Bertinelli explains. That can end up meaning added or omitted ingredients, changes in the production that alter flavor or chemistry, or both, as with Greek-style yogurts, which are made with cow’s milk versus the standard goat’s milk.

Other times, writing “style” or “inspired” can be a way to de-ethnicize or steal from a culture, Snaxshot writer Andrea Hernández points out, like the introduction of “popping boba” to brands like Starbucks, Dunkin’, and Sonic, which is nothing at all like chewy boba tapioca pearls.

This trend is far from limited to overseas products, too, explains Kat Robinson, food historian and author of Arkansas Food: The A to Z of Eating in The Natural State: “Adding ‘style’ often gives food brands and operators a way around presenting an item that might otherwise be assumed to be another product,” she explains. “In Arkansas, there’s actually legislation determining what can be called Arkansas bacon — a particular cut of pork shoulder blade or Boston roast (as opposed to pork belly) dry cured with salt, sugar, nitrates, and natural smoke. Even if the bacon is made in Arkansas, restaurants must state it’s Arkansas-style.”

Should I Be Skeptical of These Labels?

While food labeled with “style” or “inspired” should be approached with a certain amount of skepticism, it’s not always a bright red flag. For instance, European-style butter, as Yee points out.

“Butter, as defined by the USDA, has at least 80% fat, while European butter has at least 82% butterfat. Many bakers claim the higher butterfat percentage in European butter has a richer flavor and texture and is overall better for baking.” Naturally, demand has grown with this type of reputation, and American dairy producers want to keep up. After all, it’s only a matter of 2%, right?

But while all things are equal with European-style butter, because the origin of the ingredients is domestic, California state regulation prohibits companies from using the term “European” without adding “style” to their label. In fact, Yee argues, “Consumers can absolutely expect equal and even higher quality.”

He adds, “Consumers may be willing to forego buying an authentic product as long as [the alternative] meets their needs in price point, nutritional value, and delivers a close-enough culinary experience.”

I still stan this $3 brioche-style loaf for my sandwiches and will choose it over the French stuff any day of the week. Because even if I proceed with caution, it might just have enough style to prove itself well-inspired.

Have you spotted “style” groceries on shelves? Tell us about it in the comments below.

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