Why glycerin is the unsung hero for parched skin this winter
When it comes to maintaining the skin's hydration levels, hyaluronic acid and squalane are some of the most talked-about ingredients. But nestled within most of the skincare products on your shelf is a stealth hardworker, glycerin: a colourless, odourless, sweet-tasting liquid that's been used in beauty and hygiene preparations for decades.
The history of man-made glycerin (also known as glycerol) dates back to 1779 when Swedish chemist K. W. Scheele discovered the molecule. Fast forward to now, and glycerin is widely-used not only in topical cosmetics but also in food and supplements as an emulsifier and thickener.
What is glycerin?
Modern day glycerin is often sourced from plant or animal fats, but "manufacturers can also synthetically produce glycerol," says the skin expert and facialist, Joanna Evans at Skin Matters. "For vegetable glycerin, common sources include triglyceride-rich vegetable fats, such as soy, coconut, and palm oils. Most vegetable glycerin comes as a byproduct of industrial chemical reactions," adds Evans.
While animal fats have historically been used as a source, it is now much less common due to ethical concerns. "Synthetic glycerin can also be produced from petroleum, but natural glycerin is preferred due as it's more sustainable," Evans tells Bazaar.
Our body naturally produces glycerin as a byproduct of fat breakdown. "It plays a key role in cellular structure and also functions as a moisture-retaining compound within the body and skin," shares Dr Bushra Yusuf, who's part of The Ordinary's Lab Team. "Within the skin, glycerin can also come from a few additional sources, including from the breakdown of sebum. As part of the skin’s natural moisturising system, glycerin plays a role in skin hydration, elasticity and barrier repair.
"In skincare, its function is similar in that it holds water, helping to hydrate and maintain skin moisture, promoting supple, healthy skin with a smoother appearance."
What are the benefits of glycerin in skincare?
It performs as a humectant. "This means it attracts and draws moisture from the air to hydrate the skin. It makes it a key ingredient for moisturising dry and dehydrated skin," says Evans. "It's often found in lotions, creams, cleansers, and serums due to its ability to lock in moisture and leave the skin feeling soft and supple."
It cushions harsher ingredients. While retinol is the dermatologist-favourite ingredient for line-smoothing and exfoliating acids are essential for sloughing away dead skin, the inclusion of glycerin into a skincare formula will add extra hydrating benefits to minimise irritation.
It protects the skin's natural barrier. "Studies indicate that glycerin supports the skin barrier by interacting with the skin’s cells and fats, further contributing to skin hydration," says Dr Yusuf.
Who should use glycerin?
According to Evans, most skin types will benefit as "similar to hyaluronic acid, glycerin mimics the skin's natural moisturising factors". Since glycerin doesn't tend to clog pores, it also plays well with acne-prone and oily skin.
Glycerin has a strong safety profile but that said, anybody can be allergic to anything, so if you are concerned about skin reaction, a patch-test is always useful.
How to find the best glycerin skincare for you
According to Dr Yusuf, glycerin is considered to be chemically stable which means it does not easily react with other ingredients. That's why you're likely to come across it in most beauty products. Adds Dr Yusuf: "It has a smooth, slippery consistency which can help create a silky, easy-to-apply texture."
Glycerin on its own can do wonders for hydration, but well-formulated skincare should have active ingredients and additional nourishment to perform holistically - from plumping (look to peptides), soothing (try cica), brightening (vitamin C and lactic acid will do well here) to clarifying (opt for salicylic acid).
For Evans, she's a big fan of pairing glycerin with probiotics. "Glycerin is a key ingredient in my Calming Gel. The probiotics will feed off the sugar in glycerin, making glycerin a great prebiotic," she explains.
It also pairs especially well with ingredients focusing on hydration and skin barrier care. "Ingredients like natural moisturising factors (NMFs), hyaluronic acid and ceramides can work well together with glycerin to support moisture retention and soothe the skin," says Dr Yusuf.
Always look at your skincare formula as a whole to ensure that there is nothing else within the ingredient list that can wreak havoc on your complexion - be it a heavy oil for blemish-prone skin or harsh acids for sensitive complexions.
The best glycerin skincare products for alleviating dry skin this winter
Skin Rocks The Gel Cleanser
Beyond glycerin, you'll find coconut-derived fatty acids and sunflower seed oil listed high on the ingredients list. This means effective removal of daily grime and impurities, all while ensuring the skin barrier stays nourished and hydrated. Upon contact with water, the gel texture transforms into a softening milk, making it ideal as a second cleanse in the evening or a morning cleanser. There is a gentle scent of citrus, but a fragrance-free option is available, too.
Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Moisture Essence
If you're still confused about essences, think of them this way: they deliver added lightweight hydration and work best applied right after cleansing. Splash it into your palms and pat in gently. Those with oily but dehydrated skin may find that essences will give that moisture boost without clogging the skin. This one by Elemis contains nourishing minerals and collagen amino acids to plump up the complexion and prepare it for the rest of your skincare routine.
Murad Heartleaf Gentle Resurfacing Serum
Glycolic acid is excellent for polishing away dullness, but in some formulations, it can feel a little strong for more delicate complexions. Murad's new Heartleaf range is carefully formulated to deliver all the brightening, skin-reviving benefits of a glycolic acid with hardly any irritation. The formula is padded with glycerin, ceramides and soothing allantoin.
Dr Jart+ Ceramidin Skin Barrier Moisturizing Eye Cream
Dr Jart's Ceramidin line is well-loved for its nourishing prowess. This creamy eye treatment handles tired and dehydrated under-eyes with care, flooding it with moisture and preventing fine lines.
Clarins Double Serum Complete Age-Defying Concentrate
When something is as iconic as Double Serum, it makes complete sense to continuously improve it with new innovation rather than start a new product from scratch. The latest generation of Double Serum introduces the Epi-ageing Defence which uses the Provence tall reed extract to help strengthen and protect the complexion from environmental damage, all while delivering the same powerful nourishing and brightening benefits it's known for.
Caudalie Premier Cru La Creme Riche
The experts at Caudalie have been hard at work with the scientists at Harvard Medical School to create a Longevity Patent for its Premier Cru range. Essentially, it nudges the sirtuins (the longevity protein of skin cells) into gear and encourages it to behave like younger cells. Research around the effect of topical product sirtuins is still ongoing, but given how plump and healthy our skin felt, we'd say it's heading in the right direction.
The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA
This fuss-free skin hydrator won't upset sensitive complexions nor will it feel heavy on oilier skin types. Alongside glycerin, this features hyaluronic acid and soothing allantoin to tackle dry, flaky skin.
Skin Matters Calming Gel, £65
Specially designed to ease inflammation, this cooling and soothing formula treats post-procedure skin with velvet gloves using a combination of probiotics, glycerin and mallow flower. Apply right after cleansing or leave on overnight whenever your skin feels irritated. It's a useful hydrator for those with very sensitive skin, too.
Fresh Floral Recovery Calming Mask
Apply this creamy, gently scented mask as the last step of your skincare routine and leave on overnight. By morning, any redness is noticeably soothed and that tight, uncomfortable feeling is taken care of thanks to a cocktail of glycerin, squalane and peony extracts (which deliver antioxidant benefits).
Joonbyrd Little Love Body Lotion
Next to delivering intense nourishment to thirsty, winter-ravaged skin, Joonbyrd's body lotion is simply a joy to use. It smells of delicious creme brûlée and is brimming with niacinamide and antioxidants to leave your skin healthier than when you found it. The beauty editors at Bazaar rates this highly, which is why you'll find it in our Best Of The Best Beauty Box alongside other award-winning beauty products.
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