Why Olivier Rousteing's Disney X Balmain: 'The Lion King' Collection Is A Personal Journey
Olivier Rousteing journey to connect with his African heritage and deepen his relationship with the continent is an ongoing process. This month, the creative director of the French luxury house Balmain's endeavour sees the brand team up with Disney’s The Lion King to release a limited-edition collection, as part of its 30th anniversary and ahead of the upcoming theatre release of Mufasa: The Lion King in December. It marks the first time the French house has collaborated with Disney.
'It’s a dream for any designer to collaborate with Disney,’ the creative director tells ELLE UK over Zoom from his studio in Paris. According to Rousteing, there was a personal incentive behind his decision to work with the entertainment company, as he was keen to use their combined efforts as an opportunity to work with African creatives and connect with his heritage even further. ‘Let’s go back to my nine-year-old self in Bordeaux, who was watching this incredible cartoon. It inspired me so much through my journey,’ he says. ‘The story of Mufasa; the story of Simba fighting for his life and his own destiny. And knowing that I’m coming from an orphanage, and I had to fight for my own destiny in many ways – I kind of related to Simba as a child.’
Since the 39-year-old found out he is of Somali and Ethiopian decent, he has been on a journey to spotlight African craftsmanship and artistry. There are not many creative directors – let alone those with senior positions in the fashion industry – who can pay homage to their African heritage. Yet Rousteing is using his platform to bring African fashion to the forefront of the French luxury house. ‘I’m not the first to pay homage to Africa,’ he says. However, after 13 years at the helm of Balmain, he recognises he is in a prime position to combine his East African roots with his experience at an esteemed fashion house to change the narrative around luxury. ‘The question that will define the world of tomorrow is "What does luxury mean?",’ he says. ‘Luxury is about being a citizen of the world no matter where you come from or your background. I don’t want to change people’s perception of [African] luxury I just going to show them that they’re wrong. No one country can define luxury and when you go to Africa it’s an incredibly luxury continent.’
But if you’re expecting images of Simba on the Balmain monogram, you won’t find it in this collection, warns Rousteing. From intricately tailored pieces to highly embellished couture garments, it’s clear that Balmain’s DNA runs right through its collection with Disney. After all, just because it’s Disney, doesn’t mean it can't be couture. ‘From the jewellery to the most incredible dresses, I couldn’t create a collection for The Lion King without embracing and showing my love for my roots – to the continent where my blood comes from... That’s why you’ll see incredible techniques that remind you of the sunrise in Africa, the desert, the incredible fabric and colours that you’ll find. That’s what inspired me.’
This isn't the first time Rousteing has used fashion as a vehicle to explore his African heritage. In the past he’s collaborated with African creatives – whether working with visual artists such as Prince Gyasi to design his AW24 collection or collaborate with artists from Cote D'Ivoire. Rousteing says these are organic partnerships, adding: ‘I’ve never held a flag that screams "this is what I do". It’s not a marketing stand. I’ve always [worked with African artists]. It’s not new for me.’
For this collection, Rousteing teamed up with three creatives including South African painters Nika Mtwana and Cassius Khumalo, and Cameroon’s Enfant Precoce. ‘I invited incredible artists to reinterpret the characters,’ he says, noting that he worked with the artists to sketch characters in their own way so that they could be printed on to part of the collection including T-shirts and skirts. The aim was to showcase Africa’s artisans and craft, while celebrating a new generation of African talent.
For Disney, this is build on existing collaborative efforts. 'This collaboration continues Disney’s lasting legacy of working with global visionaries and spotlighting future generations of creatives,' said Tasia Filippatos, President, Disney Consumer Products.
Accompanying the collection is a short film shot in South Africa by the award winning British-Nigerian director Femi Oladigbolu. The film, which includes 30 models from around the continent, showcases the collection in South Africa’s picturesque Western Cape province. ‘The third objective was to create an incredible fashion show and video, where Balmain will be in Africa,’ says Rousteing. To make this film come to life, it was important that Balmain and Disney worked with creatives and businesses in South Africa. ‘We didn’t bring any models from Paris, New York, LA or London to Africa. We worked with an entirely local team – from the models to those who work on production,' he explains. 'My role was talking to my casting directors so that we can discover the beautiful models locally. It was a very different process to any other fashion show.'
The film will debut on July 5 during the Lion King In Concert at the Royal Albert Hall, featuring the Chineke! Orchestra, the first majority-Black and ethnically diverse orchestra in Europe. 'My roots are coming from the continent. It’s part of my blood and my story. I don’t live there but I’m learning day by day,' he says. African storytelling is not a short-term objective. 'It will always be a part of my journey no matter if it’s Balmain or another house. This will always be my mission.'
The Balmain x Disney collection launches on July 8 and will be available online and in selected stores globally.
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