The 270-Year-Old German Christmas Cookies I Look Forward to Baking Every Year
It’s easy to overlook pfeffernusse on a holiday cookie platter of colorful, stuffed, and decorated cookies. Not only are they petite, but the unassuming brown color also doesn’t give anything away about the flavor hiding within. I’m guilty of this! My first time sampling pfeffernusse was a particularly dry and bland experience that I didn’t know was all wrong, so I passed on them for several years, instead choosing to bake gingerbread cut-outs or molasses spice cookies. But pfeffernusse, which translates to “pepper nut,” is not just another spice cookie — so consider this is the best time to revisit a classic, or just try it for the first time.
More than just the usual suspects of cinnamon, ginger, and nutmeg, the cookies are also flavored with allspice, cardamom, and a generous amount of black pepper. As you bite into one, the spices hit your palate at different times, ping-ponging between warming, spicy, and earthy. Molasses, honey, and brown sugar are melted together with butter, rather than whipped, for a dense and chewy texture, rather than cakey or spongy, that does not stale for weeks.
Why You’ll Love It
They only get better with time. No stale cookies here! Although the initial crisp on the outside softens, these little cookies stay chewy and fresh for over a week. Even better, the spice flavor continues to bloom and mingle, rather than fade.
Classic, but not boring. These little brown cookies are only embellished with a dusting of powdered sugar, rather than thick frosting, sprinkles, or food coloring. But just because they’re simple doesn’t mean it’s a bad thing (especially when the plain look is in sharp contrast to their complex flavor).
Perfectly bite-size. The cookies bake into small domed half-circles for a one- to two-bite treat, meaning you can easily eat a few at a time.
Key Ingredients in Pfeffernusse
Brown sugar: Even though the brown sugar is melted, it still needs to be soft in order to pack it properly into a cup for measuring, so try one of these ways to soften brown sugar, if necessary.
Honey: Contributes to the chewy texture of the cookie, but also lightens the molasses flavor and steers the cookies away from being too much like gingerbread. It’s best to use a light honey like clover honey.
Molasses: There are a few different kinds of molasses, but for this recipe use original or light molasses, not dark, robust, or blackstrap, as that taste is too intense here.
Spices: The blend of spices, including a generous amount of black pepper, gives the cookies their signature warming flavor and prickly heat. To keep the list of spices pared down, I suggest choosing between allspice or clove, but for a deeper spice add them both!
Anise extract (optional): Wait, like licorice? Yes, anise extract is very similar to the taste of black licorice and a traditional flavor in this cookie. You can leave it out, but this recipe uses a small amount so that it adds a subtle, not overwhelming, flavor; I really recommend giving it a try.
How to Make Pfeffernusse
Make the cookie dough. Stirring the spices into the hot melted butter base lets their flavor begin to bloom and intensify. Once the mixture has thickened and mostly cooled, stir in the egg, flour, and baking soda until there are no pockets of dry flour or streaks of molasses in the dough.
Refrigerate the dough. This step is non-negotiable because the dough is more like a thick batter than light, whipped dough. Refrigerating the dough allows the flour to hydrate so the dough is not sticky and only lightly spreads when baked.
Bake and dust the cookies with sugar. Because the cookies are small, this recipe makes around five dozen, so you will likely need to bake a few batches. Keep the dough cold while the first batch bakes so they are easy (not sticky) to roll and do not flatten in the oven. A generous dusting of powdered sugar on the cooled cookies is all they need as a finishing touch.
Helpful Swaps
Anise extract is more convenient than grinding anise seeds, but if you have some in your pantry you can use that instead of extract, adding 1/4 teaspoon ground anise with the other spices.
Dark brown sugar can be used instead of light brown if you prefer a heavier molasses taste.
Instead of dusting the cookies with powdered sugar, you can mix the sugar with some water or milk until very thick and then spoon over top for iced cookies.
Storage and Make-Ahead Tips
Store the cookies in a few smaller containers (rather than one large one) to minimize how frequently the container is opened and maximize how long they stay fresh and chewy.
Pfeffernusse Cookies Recipe
These bite-size cookies are warm, spicy, and a delight to eat.
Prep time 35 minutes to 40 minutes
Cook time 25 minutes
Makes about 60 cookies
Ingredients
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter
1/4 cup honey
1/4 cup unsulfured molasses, not robust or blackstrap
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg, preferably freshly ground
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice or ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 large egg
1/4 teaspoon anise extract (optional)
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup powdered sugar
Instructions
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Cook 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar, 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, 1/4 cup honey, and 1/4 molasses in a medium (preferably wide) saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally until the sugar dissolves and the butter melts, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the heat.
Stir in 1 teaspoon ground ginger, 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 3/4 teaspoon black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice, 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom, and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt. Set aside, stirring occasionally, until mostly cooled and thickened, about 15 minutes.
Add 1 large egg and 1/4 teaspoon anise extract if using, and vigorously mix into the butter mixture with a stiff spatula until shiny and smooth. Sift in 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour and 1/4 teaspoon baking soda. Stir until the flour is completely blended. The mixture will look like a very thick batter.
Transfer to a large piece of plastic wrap, wrap, and pat into an even thickness. Refrigerate until firm (it will not be hard) and no longer sticky, at least 4 hours but preferably overnight.
Arrange 2 oven racks to divide the oven into thirds. Heat the oven to 350°F. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.
Roll 1 heaping teaspoon of the dough into a smooth ball (about 1-inch wide). Continue to roll the dough and place on the baking sheets, spacing the dough balls about 1-inch apart, 30 to 35 per sheet.
Bake for 5 minutes. Rotate the baking sheets between racks and from front to back. Bake until the sides of the cookies are firm, the tops are just set, and the edges have lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes more (err on underbaking). Let the cookies cool on the baking sheets for 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely.
Place 1/2 cup powdered sugar in a fine-mesh strainer and generously dust over the cookies before serving.
Recipe Notes
General tip: If you don’t want to scoop the cookie dough, you can cut the chilled square of dough into 60 pieces and then roll each square into a ball.
Make ahead: The dough can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container.
Storage: Store cookies in an airtight container at room temperature for 2 weeks. You can also freeze the baked cookies in a freezer-proof container or bag, with or without the dusting of powdered sugar. Thaw as many as you want at a time at room temperature on a plate and dust with powdered sugar, if necessary.
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