As A Beauty Editor, I'm Loyal To My Pharmacy Lip Balms. Here's Why...
From squishy, tapered tubes attached to phone cases to rosy pots of unctuous balms so expensive you’d think they contained actual diamond dust (and some actually do), it’s clear that lip balms are the new status symbol – along with perfectly manicured hands and designer bag charms.
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And the numbers don’t lie. The global lip care market was valued at $2.47 billion in 2024 and is expected to expand at a growth rate of 5.9% from 2025 to 2030, according to Grand View Research. At SpaceNK, where IT balms such as the Sofia Richie-approved Summer Fridays Lip Butter Balm and Tatcha’s gold-flecked lip moisturiser are stocked, sales of lip treatments are up 179% last year. That’s a lot of buttery formulas flying off the shelves.
As a beauty editor, I’d be lying if I said I was immune to the allure of a chic lip balm beautifully encased in a designer tube. I’ve been partial to luxurious formulas in even more decadent packaging, each one boasting a more impressive list of ingredients than the next.
But, I’m here to tell you that the best-kept secret among make-up artists, celebrities and fashion insiders alike is (whisper it): a pharmacy lip salve. The fanciest handbags are home to the most basic formulas. Ashley Graham, Mahalia and Billie Eilish are fans of Aquaphor while Troye Sivan and model Hilary Rhoda are partial to Vaseline.
Make-up artists are big fans, too. Gucci Westman calls Egyptian Magic her ‘forever favourite multi-tasking remedy, made with olive oil, royal jelly, and honey’, Naima Bremer rates Eucerin and Aquaphor while Dalila Bone, who's worked with India Amarteifio and Law Roach, recommends Vaseline. 'It’s a favourite personally for both female and male clients. It has a slight shine and it’s very hydrating,' she tells ELLE UK.
The skin experts are in on it, too. Consultant dermatologist Dr Aamna Adel speaks fondly of Cerave Advanced Repair Ointment while fellow derm Dr Emma Amoafo-Mensah is fan of La Roche Posay’s Cicaplast Lip Balm.
ELLE editors are also on board. Shopping Editor Grace Clarke and I keep our Vaseline Original Lip Therapy in our Celine and Staud shoulder bags respectively while commissioning editor Naomi Pike is never without The Ordinary’s Squalane + Amino Acids lip balm in her Louis Vuitton Speedy. Elsewhere, you’ll find a tube of Bioderma Atoderm Lip in the depths of acting site fashion editor Clementina Jackson’s Prada nylon tote.
We're clearly onto something (beyond the cheap and cheerful price tag). ‘It is down to personal preference, but ideally, try to keep things simple if you are trying to improve the skin of the lip,’ says cosmetic doctor and Vaseline’s beauty insider Dr Ewoma Ukeleghe, who’s also ELLE’s contributing editor. While tinted and deliciously scented lip products do have their place, extremely parched lips will fare better with a straightforward, nourishing balms instead.
Advanced Repair Ointment
Lip Therapy Tin Original
Squalane + Amino Acids Lip Balm
Atoderm Ultra Moisturising Stick
‘Overly complex formulas with exfoliants, dyes, or tingling agents may cause havoc with the skin barrier, leading to irritation,’ agrees Dr Ukeleghe. She also cautions against using anything with drying alcohol, phenol, menthol, and salicylic acid, which can create ‘a cycle of “lip balm co-dependency” with frequent application’. This means the more you reapply, the drier it feels. Consultant dermatologist Dr Sophie Shotter echoes this. ‘Anything like menthol or flavourings in lip balm are a major culprit for drying lips out, as is (excessive) fragrance,’ she says.
While tinted lip balms with glossy finishes are ideal if that’s your lip make-up of choice, I’d steer clear if you need something that’s going to actually repair cracked, extremely dry lips. It’s also worth looking at your lifestyle. As someone who’s made matte lipsticks her beauty signature, I’ve come to accept that not even the most luxurious lip balm can completely tackle my flaking lips at the end of the day - and yes, I have every ‘non-drying matte’ lipstick in my rotation.
To test the theory, I retired my lipstick for two weeks straight and had the plushest pout ever. Now, I’m loyal to my Vaseline tin. It’s no-frills, lightweight, and doesn’t interfere with my lipstick when I apply it on top.
Dr Ukeleghe recommends using ingredients that hydrate, repair and protect, such as beeswax, plant oils, shea or cocoa butter and petroleum. The latter is often demonised due to myths and misconceptions, but the petroleum jelly used in skincare formulas are properly refined and is safe to use. This classic ingredient is often too heavy for oily or acne-prone skin types, but on the lips, it acts as an occlusive moisturiser to prevent transepidermal water loss. Meanwhile, Dr Shotter adds that 'shea butter is great for lip balms as they really help restore and replenish moisture levels.’ She also namechecks hyaluronic acid and peptides as go-to ingredients.
It goes without saying that it’s never one size fits all when it comes to skincare – lip products included – so you might need some trial and error before finding the one. If designer lip balms are your poison, then go for it. But if you’re simply looking for a functional lip treatment that delivers, it’s worth starting at your local pharmacy and splurging instead on something a little less utilitarian such as a lipstick (Prada makes the best reds) or an eyeshadow you’ll use daily (Sisley’s liquid shadows are my go-to).
Sometimes, basics are truly the best.
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