Biloxi chef teams up with Mr. Mao for an unforgettable NOLA party. Here’s what was served
A James Beard-nominated Mississippi Coast chef known for his modern approach to classic Southern cuisine can also throw one hell of a party, even on a Monday night in New Orleans.
Austin Sumrall, who owns White Pillars restaurant in Biloxi with his wife Tresse, took over Mr. Mao on Tchoupitoulas Street for one night only. Four of Sumrall’s dishes, in addition to several specialty cocktails poured by White Pillars bartenders, were added to Mr. Mao’s menu.
Austin joined the Mr. Mao team in the kitchen, and Tresse helped shuck 100 oysters before dazzling guests in a long black gown and silver statement necklace in the front of the house.
I’m a Bay St. Louis native who recently moved to New Orleans, and White Pillars and the Sumralls are near and dear to me. I’ve celebrated birthdays, holidays and amazing meals with my best friends in the dining room. I photographed my best friend, DeRae, and her fiancé at the bar, where she also got engaged, and have given drag queens many dollar bills during monthly drag brunches hosted there.
I joined DeRae and her work team from MadVines Wine & Spirits for the pop-up dinner (and after party, of course). It was an experience like no other.
A packed house
Every seat in Mr. Mao was full with both New Orleans locals and Mississippi Coast residents who drove over in their finest cowboy gear to take part in the pop-up. The theme was inspired by Beyonce’s Cowboy Carter album.
Servers wore bandanas and suede vests while navigating through crowds of rowdy visitors eager to order one of everything on the menu.
Crab rangoon ravioli
The most popular dish of the night was Sumrall’s take on pasta with an Asian flair. The turmeric pasta was filled with fresh crabmeat, served in a coconut broth and topped with jalapeños, cilantro and a chile crisp.
“Everybody loves the ravioli,” Austin Sumrall said as he visited with tables after dinner service.
One guest told him: “Best thing on the menu.”
Biloxi oysters
Tresse’s hard work paid off — the “Biloxi Hot” French Hermit Oysters flew out of the kitchen all night long. The flavor profile of the oyster skewed Southern in a menu dominated by Asian flavors. The cornmeal fried buffalo oysters balanced perfectly with a crunchy pickle and white BBQ sauce.
Boudin Bahn Mi
This Viet-Cajun fusion dish was served open-faced and the boudin cakes were perfectly cooked. The texture accompanied with fresh veggies was one of the heartier dishes of the night and was a true nod to Austin’s cooking style.
Mr. Mao’s menu offerings
We also tried several items on the menu from Mr. Mao, and the Uptown spot did not disappoint. The Kashmiri fried chicken topped with pink pineapple packed a sweet heat that even the pickiest of eaters would enjoy.
The most unique texture and flavor combo of the night was the pani puri, which featured turmeric potatoes and pickled blueberry inside of a wheat sphere cracker. It was served with a spicy yet cool mint water.
Favorite cocktails
The White Pillars Crew added four specialty cocktails to the Mr. Mao menu. At my table, the most popular was the Dreamboat, a creamy tropical drink that blended Planteray 3 Star & Xaymaca rums, El Guapo Polynesian Kiss Bitters, passion fruit cream grapefruit, lemon and rose. The cocktail tasted like fruit punch at the beach and paired nicely with every course of the meal.
Jager shots and karaoke
While the White Pillars wine list and bar programming is well-regarded, Austin Sumrall and his staff often joke that the house wine is Jagermeister, their preferred shot of choice.
After dinner service finished, Jager shots were poured as guests took the stage to sing their hearts out at karaoke into the night.
