You Need to Check the Label of Your Parmesan Cheese ASAP
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In a world where cheese can be found in powder-filled packets and pressurized cans, it may not seem like a prized commodity. Yet in the fertile valleys of Parma, Italy — the birthplace of Parmigiano Reggiano — cheese is practically currency. Like other coveted goods, it is susceptible to copycats and counterfeits — and “Parmesan” is one of those dupes.
On a recent press trip organized by the Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese Consortium, the governing body of Parmesan cheese, I had the chance to taste the treasured dairy product (the real deal!) straight from its source. I toured one of the many dairies where Parmigiano Reggiano is made, observing the cheesemaking process from start to finish. I sampled at least a dozen wedges at various stages of aging, from a smooth, earthy 13-month slice to a crumbly, umami 120-month-old bite. I discovered that the rich, nutty cheese pairs excellently with Lambrusco, a slightly sweet, effervescent wine from the Emilia-Romagna region.
But perhaps more importantly, I learned that the Parmesan cheese you find in most grocery stores is definitely not from Parma. And if it isn’t from Parma, is it really Parmesan?
Parmesan vs. Parmigiano Reggiano
During my time in Italy, whenever I slipped and said “Parmesan” or “Parm” instead of the cheese’s official name, Parmigiano Reggiano (a mouthful!), I was corrected. But the enforcers had a good reason: Parmigiano Reggiano and Parmesan are not the same thing. The two cheeses, though they sound similar, are subject to different regulations, aging requirements and quality standards.
While Parmigiano Reggiano is a millennia-old agricultural product from Italy, Parmesan is an Italian-American adaptation that likely dates to the early 20th century. Parmesan cheese can be made from whole milk, cream, skim milk or reconstituted nonfat dry milk, according to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Additives such as benzoyl peroxide, which affects the color of the cheese, are allowed. Parmigiano Reggiano, on the other hand, must be made from fresh whole milk without any additives. Parmesan cheese must be aged for 10 months; it’s 12 months for Parmigiano Reggiano.
Location, location, location
There are pages of production standards for Parmigiano Reggiano, including the specific time allowed from milking the cattle to when it gets delivered to the dairy (two hours max!), but there is one point you can’t miss: “Parmigiano Reggiano can only be made in five provinces,” says Ilaria Bertinelli, official guide of the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium. “Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Bologna to the left of the Reno River and Mantua to the right of the Po River.”
Although the process for making Parmesan cheese is relatively similar throughout the world, it cannot be called Parmigiano Reggiano unless it comes from one of those five specific places (apologies to the provinces left of the Po River). It's similar to how champagne can only be called “Champagne” if it’s from the Champagne region of France. Only Parmesan cheese produced in Parma, along with neighboring provinces in the Emilia-Romagna region, can be called Parmigiano Reggiano.
The farms that rear the cows whose milk is used for Parmigiano Reggiano must be located in the defined geographical area, and the majority of their feed must come from that area too. Why? “There are certain types of lactic acid bacteria that grow naturally in the grass in these regions,” says Bertinelli. “This bacteria gets transferred to the cow and ends up in the cheese, giving the cheese its unique flavor profile.”
Therefore if it’s called “Parmesan” it’s not from Parma. Parmesan cheese made elsewhere may suffice atop a spaghetti-filled bowl, but will never taste the same as the Parmigiano Reggiano hailing from its mother region.
How can I find the real stuff at the grocery store?
Luckily it’s fairly easy to spot Parmigiano Reggiano IRL — if you know where to look:
Check the label: First, make sure the product is labeled “Parmigiano Reggiano” not “Parmesan.” Look for the official Parmigiano Reggiano logo (see above). Sometimes the logo is just the name of the product, sometimes it's the name accompanied by a small cheese graphic. The label should also say “D.O.P.” or "Denomination of Protected Origin" ("Denominazione di Origine Protetta" in Italian). This certification guarantees that the cheese was produced in one of the five designated areas using the Consortium’s standards.
Peep the ingredients list: Parmigiano Reggiano contains only milk, salt and rennet, an enzyme that comes from the cow’s stomach and helps curdle the milk during cheesemaking. Any additional ingredients indicate it’s not the real deal.
Examine the rind: At the beginning of its aging process, each wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano is wrapped with a stencil that leaves permanent marks on its rind, indicating things like the month and year of the cheese’s production. The stencils contain a specific number of dots known only to the Parmigiano Reggiano inspectors (yes, the product is subject to random quality checks), so it can’t be fabricated. At the store, look for dotted wording on the rind of the cheese. Cheese with a blank rind is not Parmigiano Reggiano.
If the wedge you’re considering meets all three criteria, you can be sure it's authentic Parmigiano Reggiano. The only problem left is what to call the wordy cheese, if “Parm” is technically not, well, Parm. From where I’m sitting (at my desk, gnawing happily on a chunk from a salt-flecked wedge) it doesn’t matter what you call it as long as you understand that the words have different meanings. While they both sound like luxurious additions to your next charcuterie board, only one tastes like it.
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