Experts share their tips on how best to hydrate your skin this winter
Year-round, our skin is at the mercy of many factors, both in and out of our control. From UV exposure to hormonal imbalances, it's no wonder that maintaining a skincare routine can feel like a full time job, racking up six, seven, or even eight steps. And come the colder months, there's the added complicated of dehydration, which becomes as much of a staple of winter as a common cold. So how best can we hydrate our skin?
The first thing to know is that dehydration doesn't discriminate; no matter what your skin type, there are plenty of reasons that it could be lacking in hydration (which we'll delve into below) and thankfully, plenty that you can do to combat it.
"Skin hydration is considered a skin condition, not a skin type," explains GP and clinical director of Nuriss Dr Anita Sturnham. "Skin types refer to the inherent characteristics of the skin, such as oily, dry, combination, or sensitive, which are determined largely by genetics and anatomical differences," she says. "Dehydration, on the other hand, refers to a temporary condition resulting from a lack of water in the skin, which can affect all types."
How can I tell if my skin is dehydrated?
The first step in treating dehydrated skin is to identify it. There can often be confusion in the difference between dry skin and dehydrated skin, each of which will require different approaches. To save you wasting time and money, here's how to tell if your skin is in need of hydration:
"Dehydrated skin often looks dull, lacks radiance and is more prone to fine lines and a rougher skin texture," says Dr Sturnham, as opposed to just dry patches here and there. "I often say to my patients to think of the skin as being like a grape. Its high moisture content leads to a smooth plump surface and as it dries out, it becomes a rough and wrinkled raisin.
Beyond the signs of dehydration at the surface, you may also experience feelings of tightness or discomfort in your skin. One of the best ways to check if your skin is dehydrated is to cleanse your skin in the morning and leave it bare for half an hour without putting on any products. If it feels uncomfortable and tight, it's likely you've got dehydrated skin. Dr Sturnham also notes that "itching, sensitivity and flakiness" are all signs that your skin is lacking in hydration.
Why is my skin dehydrated?
Those with a good memory of their GCSE biology syllabus will recall that all of the cells in our body need water in order to perform at their best; as we get older this cell renewal process slows down (and hydration with it), which means it takes longer for our bodies to heal.
"It's this cellular weakness that makes it difficult for cells to retain the water they need to function optimally," explains dermatologist Dr Howard Murad. "Water is lost from the materials that keep the collagen and elastin 'factories' going and from every layer of the skin."
Aside from the inevitable biological ageing process, there's also the usual dehydrating suspects to watch out for: "Seasonal changes, specifically when the temperature differs, can dehydrate our skin," says skin expert and facialist Rhian Truman. "It's not good for the skin to be exposed to very cold weather and to have to contend with central heating as this can further dry out the complexion."
Hot showers are another leading cause, which might not be what you want to hear in the winter months. Then there are the lifestyle factors such as water, caffeine and alcohol intake, as well as smoking and nutrition, which can also have adverse effects on your skin's hydration levels.
Genetic factors may also be at play, as is common with skin conditions. Filaggrin might not be a protein you're overly familiar with, but it's central to laying the foundation of a healthy skin barrier. "People with mutations in the filaggrin gene often have compromised skin barrier function, which can lead to increased water loss and vulnerability to environmental irritants," explains Dr Sturnham. "This can predispose individuals to conditions like eczema, dryness and dehydrated skin."
How to hydrate your skin
It might sound like we're all fighting a losing battle, but there's a plethora of options to help hydrate your skin at any age. We asked the experts to share the best methods, skincare ingredients and lifestyle changes that can help refill your skin's water reserves.
Increase your water intake
As with many things, it's best to start from the inside out. Making sure you are putting enough water into your body via water-rich foods and drinks is one of the most efficient ways to rehydrate your skin. We're not reinventing the wheel here, but it's easy to forget how important water is to the function of our body, including our skin.
"When we are babies, approximately 75% of our body is water, and think how plump and smooth a baby’s skin is. By the time we reach middle age, our body’s water content can be as low as 50%," explains Dr Murad. "Unfortunately skin ‘withers’ alongside the declining cell water content, displaying concerns such as fine lines and wrinkles."
While drinking water is the most straight-forward way to hydrating your body, Dr Murad praises the benefits of "eating your water", in other words incorporating water-rich foods into your daily diet, such as cucumbers, pomegranates, avocados, mangoes and broccoli. "Replace at least one glass of water a day with one serving of raw fruits or vegetables; you will be able to stay hydrated significantly longer," he suggests.
Include hydrating ingredients
Switching out your old skincare products for more hydrating formulas is the next step. These will help to replenish hydration, but you'll have to be diligent and stick to your skincare routine twice a day to see results.
Serums are one of the most effective ways to deliver hydration to the skin, but brands have also honed in on moisturising formulas across a range of cleansers, masks, moisturisers and toners. We've never been so spoilt when it comes to the amount of hydrating ingredients available to us, but be sure you know what to look out for.
Humectants
Truman recommends prioritising the addition of humectants, which draw in water from the surrounding environment to keep the skin hydrated. Hyaluronic acid and glycerin are two of the most well-known humectants, with the former able to hold up to 1000x its weight in water.
Dr. Dennis Gross Hyaluronic Marine Hydration Booster
Murad Cellular Hydration Repair Serum
La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Serum
De Mamiel Fatigue Fix
Naturium Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Serum 5%
La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Serum
Kiehl's Ultra Pure High-Potency Serum 1.5% Hyaluronic Acid
Kiehl's Ultra Pure High-Potency Serum 1.5% Hyaluronic Acid
De Mamiel Fatigue Fix
Skin soothers
Then there are the benefits of honey, which Truman says is "acknowledged as a nourishing ingredient, but is in fact also very hydrating" and aloe vera, which is somewhat taken for granted due to its long skincare-adjacent history. There's a reason it's been around for so long and continues to be used in modern formulas, and that's all thanks to its hydrating and soothing properties.
Emollients and occlusives
Dr Sturnham extolls the virtues of emollient (calming, softening) and occlusive (creates a physical barrier) ingredients, which help to strengthen and lock hydration into the skin. Incorporating the above into your routine is a great start, but without fortifying your skin barrier, you're not reaping their full potential. It's sort of like pouring water into your bottle without putting the lid on.
Farmacy Honey Halo Ultra-Hydrating Ceramide Moisturiser
Biossance Squalane + Amino Aloe Gentle Cleanser
Decree Peptide Emollient Veil
Sensai Comforting Barrier Mask
Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Skin Barrier Serum Toner
Sunday Riley Ice Ceramide Moisturizing Cream
Using products that contain ceramides, squalane and urea to bridge this gap is what Dr Sturnham recommends. "Ceramides are lipids that help to restore skin barrier function and retain moisture, crucial for maintaining hydrated skin," she explains. "I look for cleansers, toners, serums and moisturisers containing squalane, which is a skin-identical lipid that helps to lock in moisture and enhance skin hydration."
Invest in hydrating skin treatments
On top of a hydrating skincare routine, it can be worth employing regular, hydrating facials and skin treatments.
Skin boosters
While needles aren't for everyone, injectable skin boosters deliver instant and noticeable hydration to the skin that can last for months at a time. Profhilo, a hyaluronic acid gel, has become one of the most sought-after treatments; it's injected into the skin to help boost firmness and hydration while also helping to improve skin laxity, making it a great option for more mature complexions that want to add bounce and juiciness.
Hydrating facials
Hydrafacials have seen a marked uptick in popularity over the past few years and become the go-to for achieving a glowing and plumped complexion. (We love the fact that they also behave like a vacuum cleaner for the skin; the cleansing element of a Hydrafacial is excellent). Clinics often offer their own variation of a Hydrafacial, which can be tailored to various specific skin requirements. "Our Nuriss Bespoke Hydrafacials combine the Hydrafacial's cleansing and exfoliating properties with a hydration peel and Dermaluxe therapeutic LED light therapy," explains Dr Sturnham.
Injectable moisturisers
Another excellent treatment is with Polynucleotides; the injectable of the moment. Derived from fish DNA, they work to not only deliver an intense hit of hydration to your skin, but communicate with your cells to encourage them in the production of elastin and collagen. Polynucleotides are also ideal for injecting into specific areas such as the forehead and under eyes where skin boosters may not be as suitable.
Superficial chemical peels
A chemical peel might not sound like the most obvious treatment for improving hydration, but the removal of dead skin cells will increase the efficacy of your hydrating products, allowing them to penetrate deeper into the skin.
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