OK, But Is Using Expired Makeup Really THAT Bad?
With the influx of makeup bombarding beauty shelves and For You pages everywhere, it’s easy to end up with a stockpile of products that you barely even hit pan on, let alone use up completely.
But if you’re hanging on to a beloved collection of ancient eyeshadows, mascara, lipstick and foundation, it may be time to question whether or not these products are still safe to use. Using expired makeup may not seem problematic, but experts say it can come with an unpleasant application experience at best, and potential health risks at worst.
Textural changes you’ll see in expired makeup
Expired makeup looks different depending on the type of product.
You’ll know a liquid foundation has reached the end of its life if it has oxidized (meaning the color has changed). “Oxidation means the product reacted with air and moisture, and is probably a sign of expiration,” said Manuel Espinoza, a Los Angeles-based makeup artist.
Any change in consistency is also a red flag: If the foundation was originally a cream and appears curdled, or if it was originally a gel that exhibits changes in viscosity (meaning, it becomes liquid), it’s a sign to toss it, said Nicole Ho, a cosmetic chemist at Genie Supply. For products like serum foundations, which need to stay mixed properly to work as they should, a good sign it’s expired is if you spot a visual separation of the oil and water.
Powder products, which are usually more stable than liquids, can still deteriorate over time. “The main concern with powder products is exposure to humidity and moisture, which can cause the powder to clump together and create an environment where bacteria and mold can grow,” said Dr. Shuting Hu, a cosmetic chemist and founder of Acaderma. “Air exposure can also slowly break down certain active ingredients in powder products, especially if the product contains antioxidants or vitamins.” An expired powder product may exhibit textural changes (it may not be as smooth during application) or color changes (there may be white spots sitting on top of the powder).
When it comes to expired lip products, you may notice them becoming dry, making it difficult to get a smooth application. An expired lipstick can also experience color and textural changes, in addition to smelling musty or displaying fuzzy spots.
Health hazards associated with using expired makeup
If a product has reached its expiration date but you’re not experiencing any changes in application or feel, it still may not be safe to use. This is especially true for makeup products that have active ingredients, such as a liquid foundation with SPF. According to Hu, if a foundation containing SPF has expired, it no longer provides full protection, which can increase your risk of sunburn and skin damage. It can also give a false sense of security that you’re protecting your skin.
Expired powder products — like eyeshadow, blush and bronzer — come with their fair share of issues, too. For one, these formulas typically come into regular contact with a makeup brush, which can harbor bacteria and make them more prone to contamination and potential skin irritation, said Hu. Aside from this, you may experience a thin film on top of the powder in addition to patchy application and reduced pigmentation.
Makeup products used on or around your eyes and lips — mascara, eyeliner, lipstick, lip liner and lip gloss — are particularly harmful if used past their expiration date.
As Hu explained, every time you apply mascara, the wand comes into contact with your lashes. The wand picks up bacteria from your skin as well as contaminants in the air, which then gets put back into the mascara tube. “Once mascara expires, the preservatives inside the product that prevents bacterial growth become less effective, which means that over time, this buildup can cause serious problems, including eye infections or irritation,” she said. Not to mention, the inside of a mascara tube is dark and moist — aka the perfect condition for bacteria to grow.
Expired lip products are also risky to use. “Lipsticks collect bacteria and fungi over time, which can lead to infections like cold sores on your lips or in your mouth,” said Hu. Plus, lip products can be unconsciously ingested, posing potential health risks.
How to decode the expiration date
When exactly should we start the clock on our makeup products? According to Ho, a product’s shelf life starts from the date it’s manufactured and would be paused when the product is opened. “From this point forward, the lifespan is determined by the Period After Opening (PAO),” said Ho. This is typically reflected as a number and the letter “M” — for example, 6M indicates the product expires six months after opening.
How to extend the life of your products
Once a makeup product is opened, it starts to lose its effectiveness faster, despite what the expiration date is, Hu said. To extend the life of your products, it’s essential to keep them stored away from any air, humidity, moisture or excessive heat exposure, said Espinoza. Always close the container when not in use (specifically when it comes to powdered products), and avoid touching products with your hands or fingers, as this can introduce bacteria. When using brushes or sponges — especially with powder products — make sure you’re cleaning them frequently to avoid contamination.
Time to buy a new mascara? Check out these reader favorites.
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Amazon
A Japanese serum masacra
This Japanese mascara contains what the brand refers to as a "memory-shape polymer" that keeps lashes curled upwards all day. The ultra-waterproof formula has been enhanced with six different lash nourishers like royal jelly extract, argan and almond oil. Because of its budge-proof nature, the mascara can be a little difficult to remove so reviewers and the brand recommend using the Heroine Make speedy mascara remover when it's time to take it off.
Promising Amazon reviews:
"I love this product. It is now my favorite mascara. I have always struggled with keeping my lashes curled after putting on mascara. For some reason, this product does not weigh down my lashes. The entire day can go by and it stills looks great. I will definitely buy this one again." — Shay
"I have very straight lashes. It's hard to find a mascara that actually holds the curl. This mascara is fantastic! It holds the curl and also creates length without looking clumpy. The only complaint is that it is pretty hard to remove. I have to use a cleansing balm followed by eye makeup remover. But the plus side is that it doesn't smudge. I have oily hooded eyes so this is important to me. Definitely the best mascara I've ever used." — Caryn Monta
$9.49 at Stylevana (regularly $14)
Amazon
A conditioning mascara with a micro-bristled wand
The Roller Lash from Benefit Cosmetics is designed to create an eye-opening and lasting curl using a unique hooked brush that lifts and separates lashes and an instant setting formula. You can also expect lashes to feel conditioned thanks to the addition of B5 vitamins and serin.
Promising Sephora review: "Great mascara for those with stubborn stick-straight lashes. This manages to keep my curl for multiple hour where previously I'd have to use a waterproof mascara. My only complaint is the formula drys out relatively quick; however, I tend to prefer drier formulas. Something to note. Very easy to define your lashes and doesn't smudge below my eyes/lower lash line." — jessicageweke
Amazon
An affordable curling mascara from a famous brand
The same brand behind the internet-famous Essence False Lash Effect mascara is also responsible for this curling-specific formula that uses a peanut-shaped fiber brush to curl and lift lashes, without any clumping or weighed-down appearance.
Promising Amazon review: "This is the best mascara I’ve ever had. I have the tiniest lashes and when I don’t mascara it looks like I have no lashes. Any mascara helps but my lashes are very straight and it usually doesn’t hold. This mascara made my lashes stay curled all day after curling them once before applying and once gently after. I recommend 100%." — Alexis Wainscott
Sephora
A luxury mascara with nourishing ingredients
The Diorshow Overcurl mascara claims to be a curl-targeting formula, but where this luxe option truly stands out is its inclusion of comforting floral water, nourishing jojoba esters and cotton nectar, an ingredient that can promote shine and fortify lashes. It features a chunky bristled and perfectly curved brush to apply this jet black mascara, though it comes in up to three color options in total at Nordstrom and Ulta.
Promising Sephora reviews:
"My lashes are naturally long, but don’t usually hold a curl that well. This mascara is one of the only products that actually keeps my lashes curled the whole day." — Kylieslauson08
"Let me tell you, this is the BEST mascara I’ve ever tried. The problem I had with other mascaras is that after curling my lashes, the mascara would immediately straighten my lashes but this mascara keeps my lashes curled for the whole day!! It’s quite expensive but it’s so worth it. My mother put me on Dior products and I do not regret it. So amazing and looks so natural and it’s not clumpy, at all! Love love love." — marzryy
Sephora
A creamy lifting mascara
A Sephora-exclusive option, this volume-inducing and curl-preserving formula boasts an ultra-creamy and buildable texture that's enhanced with lifting wax to keep lashes fanned out, curled and in place.
Promising Sephora review: "I can’t believe I love this mascara. It actually does what it says it’s going to do. I was shocked. My eyelashes are like straight, they never stay curled and lifted. This mascara does it! I’m gonna buy more as backups, just in case they ever get rid of this." — Jackieg862
Sephora
A peptide-infused clean formula mascara
This clean mascara formula by Iris & Romeo claims to not only curl, but also lengthen, volumize and define each lash using a brand-exclusive emulsion wax that feels flexible yet holding. It also contains a five-peptide blend which could potentially thicken lashes over time and prevent breakage.
Promising Sephora review: "I genuinely stopped going to get my lashes curled after using this. It creates the perfect, curled and lifted lash plus I have never found a mascara that is so pigmented while being clean. I have told everyone I know (and don't know) because I keep getting compliments on my lashes! Will 100 percent be repurchasing." — CROB4
Sephora
A do-it-all water-resistant mascara
This do-it-all mascara by Rihanna's Fenty Beauty features a unique "flat-to-fat" brush shape which uses the wide side to lift and load lashes with product and the narrow side to define and curl. The formula is water-resistant and a true black shade.
Promising Sephora review: "My lashes are stubbornly straight, even when I curl my lashes, apply mascara, and curl them again afterwards, my lashes always droop back down. This mascara keeps them UP all day long, it’s crazy. I wore this mascara for an 11 hour day and at night, my lashes looked exactly how they did when I first applied this mascara. Absolutely no smudging or flaking on my lashes. It’s not my favorite volumizing mascara, but it definitely curls & lengthens." — sephoralover97
YSL
A luxe fanning mascara with hybrid brush
The YSL Curler mascara features a hybrid application brush made with curved elastomer combs combined with rounded fiber bristles to create a look that's fanned, defined and dramatically curled. The clump-free formula is enhanced with nourishing ingredients like coconut, walnut leaf and bamboo oils for imparting a healthy shine.
Promising YSL review: "This is officially my new favorite mascara! It really lives up to its name, curling my stick straight lashes really well. It also really elongates them and makes them look full and fanned out. I'm also impressed that it doesn't smear after having it on for a few hours. I absolutely recommend trying this product out!" — Sasheenb
Amazon
A completely budge-proof K-beauty mascara
Available in three shades, Curl Fix is a Korean-formula mascara that claims to keep lashes curled for a whole 24 hours. Using a combination of slim and dense bristles, this mascara is waterproof and smudge-proof yet shockingly lightweight. Reviewers say this is difficult to remove so you may want to invest in an oil-based cleanser or makeup remover.
Promising Amazon reviews:
"I have thin, straight lashes. They are long, but never ever hold a curl. PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THAT IS HOLY DO NOT CURL YOUR LASHES AFTER APPLICATION. I applied and the curl stayed very well!" — Morgan McDowell (This review has been edited for length. Read the full review.)
"My eyelashes are long but they have ZERO curl. This is hands down the best mascara I’ve used and I’m 37. The best way to use this is to have the wand ready and curl your eyelashes with a curler. Then immediately apply the mascara. It holds that curl right in place. It dries very fast so make sure your wand has the right amount of mascara on it. If it has too much your eyelashes will look clumpy." — Jeff and Heather (This review has been edited for length. Read the full review.)
Sephora
A sculpting mascara with curved applicator
Refy is probably best known for its laminating brow wax that's capable of taming even the unruliest brow hairs. The brand has utilized that same combination of waxes in this mascara, which uses a unique and dramatically curved comb-like applicator to separate, curl and lift each individual lash. The sculpting formula claims to leave behind a high-pigmented finish and curl that's long-wearing.
Promising Refy review: "This mascara makes my eyelashes look so pretty, natural, and with a nice curl. It doesn't smudge or flake, which I didn't think was possible - every mascara I've ever had ends up in the area below my eyes, no matter what I've done. And I'm amazed by the curl - I didn't even use an eyelash curler before using this mascara, and it somehow, miraculously lifts the curls! Crazy! I never thought a mascara could do what this one does - I'm amazed and now I want to buy a lifetime supply." — Heather C.
