In Saudi Arabia, This Immersive New Hotel Keeps the Ancient Past Alive
Shoayb Khattab
Every night, 1,800 candles and lanterns send shadows dancing across the walls of Dar Tantora The House Hotel, casting the interiors of this extraordinary 30-room property in soft shades of gold. Across the road from a thriving oasis, in the heart of AlUla’s Old Town, Dar Tantora inhabits a labyrinthine cluster of mud-brick and stone houses abandoned in the late 20th century. Their restoration—and subsequent conversion into a hotel—was led by Egyptian architect Shahira Fahmy, whom Phaidon describes as one of the premier “architects building the Arab future.”
Wreathed in shades of ochre, sienna, and umber, the hotel feels inextricably linked to its natural environment and the local community—both past and present. Poufs and rugs are spun from natural fibers, wooden doors are rough and hand-painted. The overplayed hallmarks of contemporary luxury design are noticeably absent: no glass doors, no hyper-polished woods, no perfect 90-degree angles. Instead, doors to guest rooms are immense pieces of lumber, carved with intricate patterns; floors are covered with ropey jute, layered with vivid red and oxblood rugs. Organic shapes and textures abound, from the grit of the mud-brick walls to the timber beams on the reed-covered ceilings. It’s like entering a museum, but one you can live and sleep in.
My stay starts with a welcome ceremony designed to engage all the senses. I’m presented with a cool towel, a plate of dates, a cup of freshly prepared Arabic coffee and an array of fragrant incense; I’m invited to pick one to be burned in my guest room at turndown. The experience feels genuine and immersive, without being put-on or costumey. Rooms are divided into four categories: Dar Al Luban is the entry-level; Dar Al Bukhour rooms have a lounge area; Dar Al Hareer rooms have both a lounge and a terrace with daybeds; and Dar Al Oud suites have two bedrooms. Each room’s layout is unique, but none have air conditioning, relying instead on ceiling fans and an age-old regional design tradition of cross-ventilation to ensure sufficient airflow. There are no electrical lights in rooms, save for sconces by the bathroom mirrors, and limited electrical lighting in public spaces. Instead, in the evenings, those candles and lanterns burn in every nook and cranny, suspending the space in a romantic glow. Everything is designed to encourage maximum immersion in this historic setting, although there is reliable WiFi across the property, so you can stay in touch with your butler via WhatsApp.
In my Dar Al Hareer room, I find phonographs and vinyl records, beautifully woven lounge blankets to mitigate the evening desert chill and Assouline coffee-table books that recount AlUla’s rich history. This ancient market city in Saudi Arabia was part of the historic incense trade route, with successive civilizations going back 7,000 years and evidence of human activity from 200,000 years ago. Despite the arid desert landscape, settlement in AlUla’s Old Town was made possible by the nearby oasis and a unique geology that allows for the accumulation of rainwater in an underground aquifer, which early civilisations used to create innovative agricultural systems. Various peoples have settled here over the millennia, including the Nabateans, who created the famous rock-cut city of Petra in Jordan, and also stamped their signature on the tombs at Hegra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site just 30 minutes north of Dar Tantora.
While the other big-name hotels in the area prize seclusion, Dar Tantora emphasizes its connection to the Old Town. Next door is Al Jadidah Arts District, a long avenue dotted with sleek souvenir shops, boutiques showcasing local brands, charming cafés, stylish galleries, and a beautiful mosque. Design Space AlUla spotlights AlUla’s core goals and aesthetic principles: sustainable design as a foundation for high-quality tourism that supports the local community. Madrasat Addeera teaches tourists and local women traditional crafts like jewelry-making and palm-weaving. When I visit, a gallery space is hosting a powerful sculpture and mixed-media exhibition by Saudi artist Manal AlDowayan called Their Love Is Like All Loves, Their Death Is Like All Deaths, originally presented in Madrid’s Sabrina Amrani Gallery last year.
Everything is interlinked in these evocative alleys. At Joontos, Dar Tantora’s all-day restaurant, a food-sharing menu is served in an open-air courtyard, and Saudi and regional dishes are crafted from ingredients sourced from the nearby oasis. A condiment of minced fermented black olives is so fragrant I nearly rub some on my wrists as perfume. A café concept, Maqha, manifests as tables, couches, and woven carpets scattered across Dar Tantora’s staggered roofs, where diners get 360-degree views of the landscape while sipping on coffee or tea. But more exciting are the culinary experiences that offer a glimpse into real life in AlUla. One morning, a woman joins us on the property to make traditional bread on a hot plate, spreading dough across the scalding surface to create delicate, crisp sheets.
At every touchpoint, a deep sense of place intensifies. From the stunning lap pool on the hotel’s rooftop, I face east and take in the verdant canopy of the oasis across the road. To the west, AlUla’s dramatic mountainscape, which has born witness to centuries of human comings and goings, continues its stoic watch. More than a hotel, this pocket universe in a rapidly developing part of northwest Saudi Arabia is a journey back in time.
A version of this article originally appeared in the May/June 2024 issue of Condé Nast Traveller Middle East.
Originally Appeared on Condé Nast Traveler
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