A guide to the Isles of Scilly: Where to stay, eat and visit
Love Cornwall’s sandy beaches but hate the summer crowds? An unspoilt and enchanting spot in southwest England should be on your radar: the Isles of Scilly.
Those that make the short crossing over from Cornwall are rewarded with an unspoilt archipelago where seas glimmer, white beaches glow and tropical plants rustle in the breeze.
Its unique microclimate – there are no winter frosts – means flowers thrive and were once-upon-a-time the islands’ economic mainstay. Expect to see a profusion of wild narcissi in spring and blue agapanthus during summer months, along with quaint stone cottages, gently rolling fields and wildlife aplenty.
Here's everything you need to know if you want to experience this hidden gem yourself...
How to get to the Isles of Scilly
The Scillonian ferry, which takes 2 hours 45 from Penzance to St Mary’s, is great for wildlife spotters, with the chance to glimpse birds and seals from the open air deck, but can be choppy.
For those worried about their sea legs, Skybus flights take 20 minutes to St Mary's from Lands End. Book both ferry crossings or flights through Isles of Scilly Travel. Alternatively, Penzance Helicopters run 17-minute flights from the mainland to Tresco or St Mary's, offering spectacular views of the Cornish coast and the islands.
Once you're on St Mary’s, there are frequent small tripper boats to St Martin’s and the other islands every day – book these at the stall on the quay.
Where to stay
St Mary's is a great place to base yourself; it's the largest island (although still tiny at just two and a half square miles) with the best links to the mainland, and from there you can easily hop over to other islands for the day on tripper boats.
If you’ve ever wanted to step back in time, Star Castle Hotel on St Mary's is the spot for you. Perched in a hilltop fort position above Hugh Town, the 1593 stone castle has panoramic views over the archipelago from the ramparts.
Garden bungalows offer additional rooms (from £205 per night for double B&B) and a swimming pool. Expect a warm welcome from staff and resident dog Rupert, and delicious traditional food. The Castle Dining Room serves up local produce in a cosy, Tudor setting, or head underground to the hotel's atmospheric Dungeon Bar.
Ryan the boatman visits every breakfast to organise guests’ boat trips around the archipelago, making this a great base for exploring.
Alternatively, Schooners Hotel (from £121 per night for double B&B) is located in the heart of Hugh Town on St Mary's, with direct views over bobbing boats in the quay. It's just moments away from sandy Porthcressa beach and some of the island's best eating spots. The nautical theme extends to the panoramic top floor lounge, which is bedecked with antique trunks salvaged from sea wrecks.
What to see and do
Nature is the main draw of this unspoilt archipelago. Paddle board or swim in the crystal-clear waters, snorkel with Atlantic grey seals or pick up one of the regular small boat wildlife safaris from St Mary’s quay to see which sea mammals and rare birds you can spot.
From St Mary's, the unspoilt island of St Martin’s is a short boat ride away, with some of the most beautiful sandy beaches the UK has to offer – you'd be forgiven for imagining you're on a tropical paradise. It’s also home to St Martin's Vineyard, a regenerative vineyard with stunning sea views, where you can enjoy tours and tastings.
On the family-run island of Tresco, prepare to be wowed by the Abbey Garden, where subtropical plants have made their home in the ruins of a Benedictine Abbey. Thanks to the warm microclimate, there are at least 300 species in bloom year-round.
Or consider an Isles of Scilly tour, with pre-planned activities and guides to help you make the most of a trip to the islands.
Where to eat
On St Mary's, Dibble & Grub serves up tasty tapas on Porthcressa beach – the potato wedges are a particular favourite – and Juliet's Garden, perched above Porthloo Beach, has a scenic terrace where you can enjoy lunch or dinner.
A visit to St Martin’s wouldn’t be complete without a visit to The Island Bakery where Barney McLachlan whips up fresh bread, Cornish pasties and other savoury goodies every morning – perfect for beach picnics.
Where to shop
Slightly off the beaten track but well worth a visit, Phoenix craft studios on St Mary’s is a collective of local artisans selling unique gifts, from ceramics and glassware to woven textiles – you can meet the makers and see them at work while you shop. Check out their workshops too, ideal for rainy days.
Family-run Rat Bags canvas shop in Hugh Town creates colourful bags and accessories with a nautical twist that have developed a cult following over the years.
Over on St Martin's, don’t miss Fay Page Jewellery, where Fay and her small team craft and sell sea-inspired jewellery from an old stone flower-barn decorated with vintage printing trays.
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