Sculptural necklines are the catwalk-tried trend to embrace
When winter arrives, we tend to retreat into the safety of chunky scarves and high-necked jumpers. Year after year, we're conditioned to reach for the same reliable pieces without much thought beyond staying warm. But, if we're to take anything from the autumn/winter 2024 catwalks, it's that now is the time to pivot our attention to this overlooked area. This season, it's all about the neck.
Not to be confused with jewellery-accented designs, beautiful necklines were a focus of the AW24 collections, reimagined with sculptural shapes and pulling inspiration from heritage tailoring.
"This season, we saw a striking evolution in neckline treatments, particularly in eveningwear," says Mytheresa chief buying officer, Tiffany Hsu. "Designers like Christopher Esber, Tove, Nensi Dojaka, and Magda Butrym pushed the boundaries with necklines that were bold yet refined — prioritising architectural shapes over traditional embellishments. These looks felt sensual, sophisticated, and refreshingly modern."
Last year, we saw whispers of this trend with the immense popularity of Toteme's scarf coat. The style flew off the shelves, became an 'It' piece of the season and was widely copied by high-street brands – and it's still popular. Net-a-Porter reports that customer searches for the piece has increased by 343 per cent in the past three months. But this season, it is going to be more about framing our necklines in innovative ways, rather than hiding them away altogether.
Attached-scarf jumper
Embroidered wool-blend scarf coat
Whipstitch-trim scarf jacket
Attached-scarf jumper
Whipstitch-trim scarf jacket
"Necklines have always been an important focal point in eveningwear," says Hsu. "However, this season we've seen outerwear embracing this trend as well, with shearling accents and scarf-inspired detailing becoming key design elements. The neck is clearly a space for creative expression across categories now."
This season has ensured drama is destined for our everyday wardrobe. At Proenza Schouler, there were constructed bowl-shaped necks which appeared to mimic the art of ceramics with its fluid designs, while at Carven, backwards collars offered alternative points of interests, with back-to-front pieces also shown at Chanel, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and Rokh. Meanwhile, Courrèges, Acne Studios and Eudon Choi all chose to exaggerate classic styles, bringing the necklines up and out in spectacular, angular fashion.
"The shift towards minimalist yet statement-making necklines aligns perfectly with the ongoing trend toward refined simplicity," says Hsu. "Historically, eveningwear has favoured embellishment — think embroidery, feathers, or dramatic off-the-shoulder cuts. This season, we’re seeing a fresh approach: understated yet impactful designs that speak directly to a more directional, fashion-savvy client."
Necklines also took a Shakespearian turn with runways ushering in the revival of the ruff. At Giambattista Valli, Emporio Armani and Batsheva, sculptural and organza collars sat atop tailored outerwear. Toga embraced extravagance with layers and ruffles, while knitted collars flounced at Altuzarra. This has already translated into consumer buying habits, with searches for 'ruffle necks' having increased by 100 per cent on Net-a-Porter's site.
The gravitational pull of the neck is apparent across luxury fashion retailers. "We're seeing our consumers gravitate toward standout pieces that elevate their wardrobe staples," says Hsu. "Necklines with interesting shapes — architectural, asymmetric, or subtly playful — are particularly compelling for our clientele, who seek unique yet versatile styles."
If you aren't ready to embrace the Elizabethan, there are plenty of other styles to incorporate the trend into your wardrobe this winter. The versatility of the scarf coat ensures its longevity, while pieces constructed with built-in architectural necklines sit as the major silhouettes of this season, and according to Hsu, will continue to carry favour into the future. Even more versatile is Proenza Schouler's Tube Scarf from its AW24 collection, which adds a sculptural element to any outfit.
"Minimalist yet architectural necklines will definitely carry forward into spring/summer 2025. Brands like Magda Butrym, Christopher Esber, and Coperni are already leading the way with creative necklines that feel sophisticated yet playful. It’s all about an effortless elegance that still makes a statement," says Hsu. "Consumers are clearly drawn to necklines that stand out while remaining chic and versatile."
Below, find our edit of the best pieces to shop to embrace the trend this winter.
Oblique cotton trench coat
Padded silk-habotai blouse
Ren jacket
Tube scarf in merino knit
$590.00 at proenzaschouler.com
Scarf-detail silk foulard blouse
Belted coat
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